by Julie Clay

photographs by Julie Clay

 

     ON A SUNNY, slightly cool February morning, my sister-in-law and I set off on our first kayak tour ever. The guided expedition of the estuary waters near Marco Island, Florida, is part of the Rookery Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve program. Choppy waters kicked up by a lingering breeze added an extra challenge for us to figure out how to steer a tandem craft. (When booking the tour, I was informed that two-seat kayaks were nicknamed “divorce boats” for obvious reasons!) We drifted in circles before awkwardly maneuvering toward our first stop at a pristine, shell-covered island, where our adventure began to get especially interesting. 

     Our able guide, Matt Metcalf, a biologist with Florida Gulf Coast University, got out of his kayak to locate and discuss the various shells and creatures living on this remote island. While he held up a giant lightning whelk shell, his assistant Ray Boniface scoured the island for more discoveries. They showed us oysters, explaining their importance in keeping the water clean, and pointed out an osprey nest complete with its family. Then we set off to explore a mudflat and the possible treasures it might offer. 

     Matt and Ray (also a biologist) work with tour operator Rising Tide Explorers in conjunction with Rookery Bay. Although many other kayak and boat tour companies exist locally, Rookery Bay is the only one whose guides are working specialists in local ecology and its preservation. 

     Since its creation in 1978, Rookery Bay has determinedly followed its mission to practice and promote stewardship of coasts and estuaries through innovative research, education, and training using a place-based system of protected areas. Per their vision, they also maintain resilient estuaries and coastal watersheds where human and natural communities thrive. 

     From their base at the Environmental Learning Center on Collier Blvd., just a couple of miles north of the kayak launch, Rookery Bay’s geographical responsibility is vast. They oversee 110,000 acres of pristine mangrove forest, uplands, and protected waters stretching from Gordan Pass in Naples to the western Everglades, encompassing 40% of Collier County’s coastline. One of only 29 protected reserves in the United States, Rookery Bay’s invaluable research is fervently backed by local support. Their work has propelled them to their status as a leading grassroots conservation effort for the U.S., says Athan Barkoukis, Executive Director of Friends of Rookery Bay. (You know this place means business when a separate entity exists solely for fundraising.)

     The sheer magnitude of acreage that the Reserve is responsible for is a constant reminder of the importance of its mission. Barkoukis remarks, “People think about Naples and only think about where most of us live. But past 951 [Collier Blvd.], there’s a lot of land out there. The challenge we face is that the more development you have north and east, the more changes happen with the natural flow of water.” 

     Barkoukis explains how the Reserve’s staff covers four core areas: education, conservation, research, and coastal training. Better science, he says, leads to better management, which is evident in Rookery Bay’s cross-collaboration and partnerships with their fellow Florida Reserves. The majority of their staff are longtimers; some have been with Rookery Bay for a good 30 years. 

     One crucial mission for Rookery Bay at the moment is the Mangrove Restoration Project, which aims to restore 64 acres of dead mangrove trees and 160 acres of dying and critically damaged forest along San Marco Rd. Road construction completed years ago connecting Goodland with Marco Island cut off significant tidal flows that resulted in extensive damage. The Project will install culverts under the road to increase water flow and remove debris and sediment. The improved water flow will, in turn, restore the forest to its natural state. The most extensive mangrove restoration attempt in Florida history, the Project is a collaboration with the Department of Environmental Protection, the Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission, and Coastal Resources Group.

     Although the official groundbreaking for the restoration project took place in October 2021, it had been in the planning stages for years. Not only do mangroves provide an essential habitat and food source for birds, fish, and other Florida wildlife, they also act as a buffer during hurricanes and storm surges, Barkoukis reminds us. It’s nice to know this Project is up and running before the next big hurricane hits. 

     Thankfully, many mangroves remain untouched not far away. On our tour, we glided past mangrove-lined open swaths of water before stopping in one’s shade for a bit of education. Matt pointed out an unusually large root crab and another eight or nine-inch long lightning whelk that contained a huge reddish-orange snail resident busily consuming a smaller whelk before spitting out the shell. These things happen in the wild, apparently. We passed it around to admire it and grab a selfie. Matt also identified the three kinds of mangroves present in southwest Florida, red, white, and black, and encouraged us to pick a leaf from one to taste the dried salt. I politely declined the offer. The next leg of our adventure awaited us. 

     Mangrove tunnels are a beautiful part of a kayak tour. These natural narrow channels where the branches meet above to form a natural canopy are a serene moment of beauty. Just don’t drift too close to the branches, as they can be unforgiving and a bit ‘scratchy’ up close, as I found out. No worries! Your experienced, knowledgeable guides are ready with a towrope to rescue you should this sticky situation arise. 

     Following a stop at a mudflat, where I discovered a jellyfish-type creature identified by our guides as a ‘hairy slug,’ our kayak journey continued beneath a crystal blue Florida sky, amidst a persistent breeze. Upon regaining our dry land footing, we headed to the Rookery Bay Environmental Learning Center. 

     The Reserve’s website states that the 16,500 square foot Learning Center is an ‘environmentally-friendly’ educational, research and training facility with research laboratories, classrooms, a 140-seat auditorium, aquariums, and two-story visitor center. Visitors can enjoy a variety of hands-on experiences for all ages, as well as interactive exhibits, an art gallery, picnic areas, and nature trails winding around nearby Henderson Creek.

     The Learning Center’s touch tank was where I encountered yet another strange-looking being known as a toadfish, which, in my opinion, strangely resembled a pufferfish. Wedged into a corner at the bottom, it was patiently staring upwards. A Rookery Bay associate informed us that he was waiting to be fed. 

     Rookery Bay offers a regular lineup of events and activities for all ages, including their annual Natural Selections juried photography exhibition, which is on view through the end of April. All works reflect Florida’s flora and fauna. Natural Selections was created in partnership with the United Arts Council of Collier County.

     As a nonprofit, Rookery Bay welcomes and appreciates monetary gifts to help fund their research and water, weather, and wildlife monitoring activities. Their most significant annual fundraiser, the annual Bash for the Bay, is Friday, March 18, at Ultimate Garages in Naples. A Formula One Simulator will be on hand for Patron Guests.  

Back outside, it is spring, and as Barkoukis says, “‘tis the season for prescribed burns.” Yep, it’s that time of year where at any given time, a plume of smoke can be seen in the distance. Quite often, it’s intentional. “There’s a very small window in which our agencies in southwest Florida can conduct prescribed burns,” he shares. “It’s most notable, really, for the benefit of the community to conduct these controlled burns and reduce the overgrowth of vegetation and the potential of wildfires that damage property.” Many of these prescribed burns happen in Golden Gate Estates, planned in conjunction with several Florida agencies who work together to ensure the utmost safety. 

     Barkoukis says, “Everyone works together. It’s a cross-collaboration.” He ticks off the extensive list: Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge, Collier Seminole State Park, Big Cypress National Preserve, Fakahatchee Strand, Panther Wildlife Refuge, and Picayune Strand are the bigger of the many organizations that work in conjunction to keep the controlled burns just that. 

     Outside the Learning Center, on the bridge overlooking Henderson Creek, I snapped a picture of the clouds reflecting above the peaceful waters. In our conversation earlier, Athan had referred to the Everglades nickname coined by American journalist Marjorie Stoneman Douglas, ‘The River of Grass.’

     “Development changes things. The water issues that we’ll face are challenging,” he’d mentioned. With five years of official Rookery Bay affiliation under his belt, Barkoukis has been a concerned local since 1987. “Talk was going on about building roads across to Keewaydin and other barrier islands,” he recalls. “Fortunately, the community had enough petitions to veto it.” Said veto was so important that they created a monument to commemorate it and placed it at the end of Shell Island Rd. If you don’t feel like trekking out there to find it, there’s a mockup conveniently located at the Environmental Learning Center. 

     We’re glad Rookery Bay and its outreach are tirelessly working toward preserving it and fixing the problems that have already happened. Experience this piece of Florida paradise for yourself. Plan your trip by visiting Rookerybay.org. We highly recommend the kayak tour and dare you to take the Divorce Boat challenge!   •

 

     Rookery Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve is located at 300 Tower Rd., off Collier Blvd., south of US 41, in Naples. It is open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm. For information about Rookery Bay and their Bash for the Bay fundraiser, call 530-5972.